About hamsters
Hamsters are small rodents and have a life expectancy of around 2 years. They used to be thought of as a child’s first pet, however over recent years it has been shown that hamsters can be quite high maintenance and have complex needs. They are fragile creatures that can be easily injured by careless handling. Not all hamsters are social or enjoy being handled. You should try not to wake your hamster when they are sleeping unless necessary. They are nocturnal which means they are most active at night and sleep throughout the day.
There are several different breeds of pet hamsters including Syrian, Campbell’s Russian, Winter White, Roborovski and Chinese hamsters. Campbell Russian and Winter White hamsters are classed as dwarfs, whereas the other three are not. Syrian hamsters are naturally solitary, never try to pair/group them together as they are very territorial animals.
There are several different breeds of pet hamsters including Syrian, Campbell’s Russian, Winter White, Roborovski and Chinese hamsters. Campbell Russian and Winter White hamsters are classed as dwarfs, whereas the other three are not. Syrian hamsters are naturally solitary, never try to pair/group them together as they are very territorial animals.
Hamster accommodation
Hamster enclosures must be a minimum of 80cm x 50cm, but recent research has shown bigger is better to reflect the space they would have in the wild and prevent stress. The bars of their cage should not be wide enough for them to climb through. On some occasions hamsters have been able to chew through plastic and wooden bases, so make sure to watch out for any signs of chewing.
There are many types of bedding/substrates you can use in their enclosures and a mix of bedding will make things more interesting for them to explore. A popular one is paper based bedding (Carefresh). We also recommend aubiose, fitch, aspen (not cedar) shavings, ripped up tissue/toilet roll to make nests, shredded paper (no ink) & megazorb. Try not to make the bedding too shallow, you can encourage digging opportunities by adding as much bedding as you can. We recommend 6 inches deep or more if possible. The more bedding you can add the more opportunities your hamster will have to build dens, tunnels, hiding places etc.
Not all types of bedding sold in pet shops are suitable hamsters. We do not recommend using cedar wood shavings as bedding as they can react to your hamster’s urine and give off toxic fumes that harm your hamster’s breathing. We also do not recommend pine shavings, wood cat litter, fluffy bedding or any scented bedding.
When it comes to cleaning we recommend spot cleaning every couple of days. You only need to empty half of the used bedding (ensure you remove anything that’s soiled) and replace it with new. Hamsters can become very stressed when being put in an enclosure that doesn’t smell like them. Depending on the size of your enclosure, you can clean it out every 4/6 weeks – the bigger the cage the less you need to clean it! Make sure you put your hamster in a separate cage or carrier when doing a big clean.
There are many types of bedding/substrates you can use in their enclosures and a mix of bedding will make things more interesting for them to explore. A popular one is paper based bedding (Carefresh). We also recommend aubiose, fitch, aspen (not cedar) shavings, ripped up tissue/toilet roll to make nests, shredded paper (no ink) & megazorb. Try not to make the bedding too shallow, you can encourage digging opportunities by adding as much bedding as you can. We recommend 6 inches deep or more if possible. The more bedding you can add the more opportunities your hamster will have to build dens, tunnels, hiding places etc.
Not all types of bedding sold in pet shops are suitable hamsters. We do not recommend using cedar wood shavings as bedding as they can react to your hamster’s urine and give off toxic fumes that harm your hamster’s breathing. We also do not recommend pine shavings, wood cat litter, fluffy bedding or any scented bedding.
When it comes to cleaning we recommend spot cleaning every couple of days. You only need to empty half of the used bedding (ensure you remove anything that’s soiled) and replace it with new. Hamsters can become very stressed when being put in an enclosure that doesn’t smell like them. Depending on the size of your enclosure, you can clean it out every 4/6 weeks – the bigger the cage the less you need to clean it! Make sure you put your hamster in a separate cage or carrier when doing a big clean.
An example of a typical pet shop hamster cage inside a large hamster enclosure to show size difference.
Enrichment and exercise
There are a variety of toys that can help you create a mentally stimulating environment for your hamster such as tunnels and hidey houses. Adding bowls/trays of hamster friendly sand to their enclosure is good enrichment and healthy for their skin/fur. You can also add sections of coco fibre (reptile bedding) as well as their main substrate for an enrichment area.
Hamsters can be lively, active creatures so it’s important to give them enough to do to break the boredom. Try to keep the cage busy with chewing and digging opportunities. You should always consider your pet’s natural environment, and the more closely you can replicate a hamster’s natural environment, the healthier and happier your hamster will be.
The wheels listed below are our recommended sizes (in diameter) per hamster breed. All hamsters are different, some are larger than others, so we advise observing your hamster when s/he’s running. These sizes should be big enough to prevent the hamster’s back from curving unnaturally.
Syrian: 28cm+
Dwarf species (Campbell Russian and Winter White): 20cm+
Roborovski: 16cm+
Chinese: 20cm+
For exercise they can also have time out of their cage to free roam in a secure area that is hamster proof (no electrical wires or other hazards and nowhere they can escape). We do not recommend balls as they are usually very small in size, they do not allow the hamster to hide if they feel threatened and they would not have constant access to water.
Hamsters can be lively, active creatures so it’s important to give them enough to do to break the boredom. Try to keep the cage busy with chewing and digging opportunities. You should always consider your pet’s natural environment, and the more closely you can replicate a hamster’s natural environment, the healthier and happier your hamster will be.
The wheels listed below are our recommended sizes (in diameter) per hamster breed. All hamsters are different, some are larger than others, so we advise observing your hamster when s/he’s running. These sizes should be big enough to prevent the hamster’s back from curving unnaturally.
Syrian: 28cm+
Dwarf species (Campbell Russian and Winter White): 20cm+
Roborovski: 16cm+
Chinese: 20cm+
For exercise they can also have time out of their cage to free roam in a secure area that is hamster proof (no electrical wires or other hazards and nowhere they can escape). We do not recommend balls as they are usually very small in size, they do not allow the hamster to hide if they feel threatened and they would not have constant access to water.
Hamster diet
Hamsters love to hoard food. They pack their pouches (cheeks) with food and store it around their cage to save for later. Feeding time should be when they wake up, which is usually in the evening. When you clean their enclosures, ensure to remove any spoiled food. If there’s a large amount of food hidden you can reduce the amount of food you give – but watch their weight!
Depending on the size of your hamster we recommend feeding half a tablespoon of nuggets daily (selective or burgess brands) with half a tablespoon of mixed seeds and grains. Scatter and hide food to encourage natural forage behaviours, plus it’ll keep them busy.
Hamsters are omnivores which means they eat a mix of plants and meat. They love to eat fresh vegetables, meat, seeds, nuts and insects etc. You can give one teaspoon of fresh vegetables a few days a week and give protein-packed treats 2-3 days a week. On occasions you can give a small piece of fruit, but these are to be fed in moderation because of the high sugar and water content.
Hamsters need constant access to fresh water 24/7. This should be provided in a bottle.
Depending on the size of your hamster we recommend feeding half a tablespoon of nuggets daily (selective or burgess brands) with half a tablespoon of mixed seeds and grains. Scatter and hide food to encourage natural forage behaviours, plus it’ll keep them busy.
Hamsters are omnivores which means they eat a mix of plants and meat. They love to eat fresh vegetables, meat, seeds, nuts and insects etc. You can give one teaspoon of fresh vegetables a few days a week and give protein-packed treats 2-3 days a week. On occasions you can give a small piece of fruit, but these are to be fed in moderation because of the high sugar and water content.
Hamsters need constant access to fresh water 24/7. This should be provided in a bottle.
Hamster health
We recommend giving your hamster a thorough health check at least once a week checking eyes, nose, teeth, ears, feet, nails, bottom and skin/fur. Checking your hamster weekly will help you notice any injuries or illnesses. A hamster with any health issues needs to be checked by a vet to diagnose the problem. Be sure to find an exotic vet or vet who is experienced with hamsters. If you notice any negative changes in your hamster’s behaviour, droppings, urine etc or if they’re not eating/drinking, please contact your vet as soon as possible.
Common health issues
Overgrown incisor teeth usually cause serious injury to the roof of the mouth. To prevent teeth overgrowing, give your hamster a good diet and provide plenty of chewing opportunities with safe materials such as wood. If teeth needs to be shortened this should be done by an experienced vet.
Wet tail is one of the most serious illnesses a hamster could get. It is mostly common in younger hamsters under 12 weeks old and is highly contagious. Wet tail is where the hamster has a wet, dirty bottom caused by bacteria and they will need to see a vet immediately for treatment. Symptoms are diarrhoea, loss of appetite and not drinking, lethargy, hunched posture and scruffy coat. The most common cause is stress, so always try to reduce your hamsters stress levels.
Diabetes is a condition where the pancreas cannot produce enough insulin to meet the body’s needs. The main symptoms show sudden weight loss/gain, greater thirst, increased appetite, excessive toiletry habits and hyperactivity or lack of energy. If left untreated, hamsters can suffer serious side effects such as heart problems, kidney failure and blindness. It is more common in dwarf hamsters (Campbell Russian and Winter White) however any hamster breed can suffer with it.
Respiratory infections can lead to pneumonia. Symptoms include wheezing, unsteady breathing, sneezing and discharge from eyes or nose. There may also be signs of loss appetite and decreased activity.
Torpor by definition is a state of physical or mental inactivity; lethargy. It’s an unplanned, short-term solution to being too cold - it’s to protect themselves. They can slow their metabolism down to save energy. You need to warm them up gradually and gently. Hamsters do not go into hibernation.
Diarrhoea can occur if hamsters are over fed vegetables or other fresh foods. This is serious and can lead to dehydration.
Wet tail is one of the most serious illnesses a hamster could get. It is mostly common in younger hamsters under 12 weeks old and is highly contagious. Wet tail is where the hamster has a wet, dirty bottom caused by bacteria and they will need to see a vet immediately for treatment. Symptoms are diarrhoea, loss of appetite and not drinking, lethargy, hunched posture and scruffy coat. The most common cause is stress, so always try to reduce your hamsters stress levels.
Diabetes is a condition where the pancreas cannot produce enough insulin to meet the body’s needs. The main symptoms show sudden weight loss/gain, greater thirst, increased appetite, excessive toiletry habits and hyperactivity or lack of energy. If left untreated, hamsters can suffer serious side effects such as heart problems, kidney failure and blindness. It is more common in dwarf hamsters (Campbell Russian and Winter White) however any hamster breed can suffer with it.
Respiratory infections can lead to pneumonia. Symptoms include wheezing, unsteady breathing, sneezing and discharge from eyes or nose. There may also be signs of loss appetite and decreased activity.
Torpor by definition is a state of physical or mental inactivity; lethargy. It’s an unplanned, short-term solution to being too cold - it’s to protect themselves. They can slow their metabolism down to save energy. You need to warm them up gradually and gently. Hamsters do not go into hibernation.
Diarrhoea can occur if hamsters are over fed vegetables or other fresh foods. This is serious and can lead to dehydration.
Useful websites
www.hamsterwelfare.com