About Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs, also called cavies, are small rodents that have the life expectancy of around 7 years. They can be quite high maintenance and have complex needs. They are fragile creatures that can be easily injured by careless handling, so children will need to be supervised. They do need daily interaction, however, not all guinea pigs are social and enjoy being handled.
Guinea pigs should live in groups or pairs, but never on their own. They’re highly social pets, so they must have the company of their own kind. They are usually active up to 20 hours per day and sleep only for short periods of time throughout the day.
They have a wide range of vocalisations which display different moods and emotions. For example, when they are happy or excited they make a ‘wheeking’ noise. They also ‘popcorn’ when they’re happy, which is when they jump in the air and twist their bodies.
Guinea pigs, also called cavies, are small rodents that have the life expectancy of around 7 years. They can be quite high maintenance and have complex needs. They are fragile creatures that can be easily injured by careless handling, so children will need to be supervised. They do need daily interaction, however, not all guinea pigs are social and enjoy being handled.
Guinea pigs should live in groups or pairs, but never on their own. They’re highly social pets, so they must have the company of their own kind. They are usually active up to 20 hours per day and sleep only for short periods of time throughout the day.
They have a wide range of vocalisations which display different moods and emotions. For example, when they are happy or excited they make a ‘wheeking’ noise. They also ‘popcorn’ when they’re happy, which is when they jump in the air and twist their bodies.
Diet
Guinea pigs are herbivores which means they only eat plants. 80-90% of their diet should consist of fresh hay/grass daily. Timothy hay should always be available in unlimited amounts. By eating the long hay strands it will keep their digestive systems moving and help prevent serious dental problems. You can feed your Guinea pigs fresh hand cut grass, but do not feed them lawnmower clippings as this can cause serious health problems.
Pellets are not a substitute to hay and should only be given in small amounts. It’s good to have a feeding routine, they like to be fed the same time every day. We recommend feeding Science Selective and/or Burgess Excel as these are packed with vitamin C. Avoid muesli style food mixes as they contain a lot of sugars – they tend to leave the bits that are high in fibre and eat the parts that are full of sugar, resulting in an unbalanced diet. They should not be given seeds or nuts.
Guinea pigs lack the enzyme needed to synthesise vitamin C and can only store it for short periods of time. Their diet needs to be supplemented with plenty of vitamin C. This can be given through pellets and vegetables such as peppers. Another way to provide it is through “Natural Science: Vitamin C” treats by Oxbow, which you can give one treat a day. Be careful to not give too much! Vitamin C should not be added to their water.
Fresh green vegetables and herbs can be given in small amounts daily. On occasion you can give a small piece of fruit, these are to be fed in moderation because of the high sugar and water content. New vegetables must be introduced slowly, to avoid digestive upsets. Watch out for vegetables and other foods (alfalfa) that contain high levels of calcium as this can cause urinary problems in the future.
Guinea pigs need constant access to fresh water 24/7. This should be provided in a bottle. Avoid distilled water. Do not add anything, such as vitamins, in their water.
Guinea pigs are herbivores which means they only eat plants. 80-90% of their diet should consist of fresh hay/grass daily. Timothy hay should always be available in unlimited amounts. By eating the long hay strands it will keep their digestive systems moving and help prevent serious dental problems. You can feed your Guinea pigs fresh hand cut grass, but do not feed them lawnmower clippings as this can cause serious health problems.
Pellets are not a substitute to hay and should only be given in small amounts. It’s good to have a feeding routine, they like to be fed the same time every day. We recommend feeding Science Selective and/or Burgess Excel as these are packed with vitamin C. Avoid muesli style food mixes as they contain a lot of sugars – they tend to leave the bits that are high in fibre and eat the parts that are full of sugar, resulting in an unbalanced diet. They should not be given seeds or nuts.
Guinea pigs lack the enzyme needed to synthesise vitamin C and can only store it for short periods of time. Their diet needs to be supplemented with plenty of vitamin C. This can be given through pellets and vegetables such as peppers. Another way to provide it is through “Natural Science: Vitamin C” treats by Oxbow, which you can give one treat a day. Be careful to not give too much! Vitamin C should not be added to their water.
Fresh green vegetables and herbs can be given in small amounts daily. On occasion you can give a small piece of fruit, these are to be fed in moderation because of the high sugar and water content. New vegetables must be introduced slowly, to avoid digestive upsets. Watch out for vegetables and other foods (alfalfa) that contain high levels of calcium as this can cause urinary problems in the future.
Guinea pigs need constant access to fresh water 24/7. This should be provided in a bottle. Avoid distilled water. Do not add anything, such as vitamins, in their water.
Accommodation
Guinea pigs can live indoors or outdoors. We recommend a minimum space of (L)6ft x (D)2ft x (H)2ft (or equivalent 5 x 2 C&C grid) to house a pair of guinea pigs, however, research has shown bigger is better to reflect the space they would have in the wild and prevent stress. Guinea pigs are a ground roaming species and they need plenty of space to run around and popcorn. Male pairs in particular do not do well in anything smaller than 6ft, it causes unnecessary tension and highly increases the chance of them falling out.
Unlike rabbits who have the fabulous Rabbit Welfare Association advocating for their needs and educating people on the importance of space, the guidelines for piggies are very outdated and we strongly believe that the current guidelines of 4ft x 2ft simply isn't enough.
Both indoor and outdoor accommodation should provide a separate sleeping area where your guinea pigs can retreat and have quiet time. The bars/mesh of their enclosure should not be wide enough for them to climb through or be able to get their head stuck. Enclosures should be predator-proof from foxes, cats, dogs, birds etc to keep them safe. The thickness of the wire mesh should be 16G.
Outdoor housing must be sited off the ground and out of direct sunlight. It should be weatherproof so the rain can’t enter and wind should not be able to push it over. We recommend sheds or playhouses when housing guinea pigs outside. If you’re using an outdoor run, we advise putting this on paving slabs – this will stop any predators digging in and will even help file your piggy’s nails! Guinea pigs are very sensitive, so we advise during the colder months they should be brought indoors. If this is not possible then it is especially important that the outdoor housing protects them from the elements. You should ensure they are warm enough with heat pads and plenty of bedding. Guinea pigs do not cope well with damp and drafts.
Indoor housing should be located away from electrical wires, direct sun, loud noises and other pets that could harm them. C&C cages are a great option. You can make them to any shape or size your heart desires and you can be pretty creative. Guinea pigs are social animals that like to see what’s going on – when they hear the fridge open they usually start squeaking! When they live indoors you tend to see them more often so if they become sick you will notice a lot quicker than if they were outside.
There are many types of bedding/substrates you can use in their enclosures. A popular one being fleece blankets. We also recommend towels, vet bed, carefresh, fitch & megazorb. Not all types of bedding sold in pet shops are suitable for guinea pigs. We do not recommend using cedar wood shavings as bedding as they can react with their urine and give off toxic fumes that harm your guinea pig’s breathing. We also do not recommend pine shavings or any scented bedding.
Cleaning your guinea pig's living space is something you must expect to do on a regular basis. You should spot clean their enclosure daily and completely clean it out at least once a week. When doing this you should put your guinea pig in a separate area away from their enclosure.
Guinea pigs can live indoors or outdoors. We recommend a minimum space of (L)6ft x (D)2ft x (H)2ft (or equivalent 5 x 2 C&C grid) to house a pair of guinea pigs, however, research has shown bigger is better to reflect the space they would have in the wild and prevent stress. Guinea pigs are a ground roaming species and they need plenty of space to run around and popcorn. Male pairs in particular do not do well in anything smaller than 6ft, it causes unnecessary tension and highly increases the chance of them falling out.
Unlike rabbits who have the fabulous Rabbit Welfare Association advocating for their needs and educating people on the importance of space, the guidelines for piggies are very outdated and we strongly believe that the current guidelines of 4ft x 2ft simply isn't enough.
Both indoor and outdoor accommodation should provide a separate sleeping area where your guinea pigs can retreat and have quiet time. The bars/mesh of their enclosure should not be wide enough for them to climb through or be able to get their head stuck. Enclosures should be predator-proof from foxes, cats, dogs, birds etc to keep them safe. The thickness of the wire mesh should be 16G.
Outdoor housing must be sited off the ground and out of direct sunlight. It should be weatherproof so the rain can’t enter and wind should not be able to push it over. We recommend sheds or playhouses when housing guinea pigs outside. If you’re using an outdoor run, we advise putting this on paving slabs – this will stop any predators digging in and will even help file your piggy’s nails! Guinea pigs are very sensitive, so we advise during the colder months they should be brought indoors. If this is not possible then it is especially important that the outdoor housing protects them from the elements. You should ensure they are warm enough with heat pads and plenty of bedding. Guinea pigs do not cope well with damp and drafts.
Indoor housing should be located away from electrical wires, direct sun, loud noises and other pets that could harm them. C&C cages are a great option. You can make them to any shape or size your heart desires and you can be pretty creative. Guinea pigs are social animals that like to see what’s going on – when they hear the fridge open they usually start squeaking! When they live indoors you tend to see them more often so if they become sick you will notice a lot quicker than if they were outside.
There are many types of bedding/substrates you can use in their enclosures. A popular one being fleece blankets. We also recommend towels, vet bed, carefresh, fitch & megazorb. Not all types of bedding sold in pet shops are suitable for guinea pigs. We do not recommend using cedar wood shavings as bedding as they can react with their urine and give off toxic fumes that harm your guinea pig’s breathing. We also do not recommend pine shavings or any scented bedding.
Cleaning your guinea pig's living space is something you must expect to do on a regular basis. You should spot clean their enclosure daily and completely clean it out at least once a week. When doing this you should put your guinea pig in a separate area away from their enclosure.
Enrichment & Exercise
Guinea pigs need mental stimulation, enrichment, exercise, and the ability to express normal behaviours such as walking, running, tunnelling, chewing, foraging and hiding. Change the environment in your guinea pigs’ enclosure by rearranging their items and swapping for new ones every week to make their set up more interesting.
Exercise is an important part of maintaining your guinea pig’s health and well-being. Guinea pigs are very active and need daily exercise. We recommend letting them out in a playpen, outdoor run or free roam (room should be guinea pig safe) for at least 1 hour. This space should be 6ft x 2ft or bigger. No exercise balls or wheels are needed.
Try to keep the cage busy with various different toys to chew, this will keep them active and help grind down their teeth. Provide them with foraging opportunities such as cardboard boxes filled with hay and pellets/dried herbs hidden around their enclosure. Guinea pigs also love hiding. Adding hidey houses can make your pet feel safer. We advise having one house per guinea pig.
Guinea pigs need mental stimulation, enrichment, exercise, and the ability to express normal behaviours such as walking, running, tunnelling, chewing, foraging and hiding. Change the environment in your guinea pigs’ enclosure by rearranging their items and swapping for new ones every week to make their set up more interesting.
Exercise is an important part of maintaining your guinea pig’s health and well-being. Guinea pigs are very active and need daily exercise. We recommend letting them out in a playpen, outdoor run or free roam (room should be guinea pig safe) for at least 1 hour. This space should be 6ft x 2ft or bigger. No exercise balls or wheels are needed.
Try to keep the cage busy with various different toys to chew, this will keep them active and help grind down their teeth. Provide them with foraging opportunities such as cardboard boxes filled with hay and pellets/dried herbs hidden around their enclosure. Guinea pigs also love hiding. Adding hidey houses can make your pet feel safer. We advise having one house per guinea pig.
Health
We recommend giving your guinea pig a thorough health check at least once a week checking eyes, nose, teeth, ears, feet, nails, bottom and skin/fur. Checking your guinea pigs weekly will help you notice any injuries or illnesses. Droppings should be uniform and oval, medium to dark brown. A guinea pig with any health issues needs to be checked by a vet to diagnose the problem. Be sure to find an exotic vet or vet who is cavy experienced. If you notice any negative changes in your pet’s behaviour, droppings, urine etc or if they’re not eating/drinking, please contact your vet as soon as possible.
Daily brushing is important for long-haired guinea pigs but less necessary for short-haired. If you like, you can trim their fur which will help prevent any tangles. Also grooming is great because it will help you spot any health issues early. Do not give your guinea pig a bath or let them swim.
Common Health Issues
Gastrointestinal (GI) ’Stasis’
This is a common condition in guinea pigs, which means there is little to no movement in the gastrointestinal tract (gut). GI stasis will occur anytime a guinea pig stops eating, for any reason. All the below health conditions can lead to stasis. Stress and lack of exercise may also cause GI stasis. Symptoms may include low or no appetite, diarrhoea, decreased faecal production, pain, lethargic and unable to walk. If you do not act quickly, GI stasis can lead to severe life-threatening complications.
Bacterial Pododermatitis (Bumblefoot)
This is a severe footpad infection that occurs in guinea pigs housed in wire-floored cages, rough bedding and unsanitary conditions. Symptoms include swelling and inflammation of the feet, sores and lameness. Some guinea pigs become used to the pain, so they do not seem overly affected but this is not the case. This should be treated by a veterinarian. If left untreated this can become very serious. Improved sanitation and better substrate are the first steps in correcting the problem.
Dental Disease
This is common in guinea pigs who are not fed the correct diet. Majority of their diet should contain fresh hay – eating long strands wear down their teeth. Symptoms of tooth problems are lowered appetite, wet chin and weight loss. Guinea pigs should have their teeth checked by a veterinarian every 6 months to help prevent dental disease.
Scurvy (Vitamin C deficiency)
Vitamin C is vital for the development and maintenance of skin, joints, and mucosal surfaces, I.e. gums. Guinea pigs are unable to manufacture their own vitamin C and if they do not get it through their diets, this can lead to health problems. Symptoms include low appetite, diarrhoea, discomfort, ulcers on gums/skin.
Abscesses
Abscesses can occur anywhere on your guinea pig and is formed when your guinea pig is suffering from an infection. They can develop both under and on the skin of your guinea pig. If you notice the abscess quickly, it can be treated quickly and effectively by your vet. In most cases, these can be drained, however, some need to be surgically removed.
Urinary Problems
Due to their short legs, guinea pigs are low to the ground making it easy to develop infections from wet bedding and droppings. Often urinary stones formulate in association with infection and high levels of calcium in diets. This can be incredibly painful and require vet attention. Signs of urinary problems can include straining to urinate, blood in urine, squeaking whilst urinating, weight loss, lethargy and/or hunched posture.
Upper respiratory conditions
These can quickly become fatal with guinea pigs and therefore need to be treated immediately. Symptoms include: laboured/rapid breathing, lethargy, discharge from the eyes/nose, lack of appetite, sneezing and coughing. The most significant respiratory disease is Pneumonia. Causes of respiratory infections include: stress, overcrowding/poor living conditions or other underlying illness.
We recommend giving your guinea pig a thorough health check at least once a week checking eyes, nose, teeth, ears, feet, nails, bottom and skin/fur. Checking your guinea pigs weekly will help you notice any injuries or illnesses. Droppings should be uniform and oval, medium to dark brown. A guinea pig with any health issues needs to be checked by a vet to diagnose the problem. Be sure to find an exotic vet or vet who is cavy experienced. If you notice any negative changes in your pet’s behaviour, droppings, urine etc or if they’re not eating/drinking, please contact your vet as soon as possible.
Daily brushing is important for long-haired guinea pigs but less necessary for short-haired. If you like, you can trim their fur which will help prevent any tangles. Also grooming is great because it will help you spot any health issues early. Do not give your guinea pig a bath or let them swim.
Common Health Issues
Gastrointestinal (GI) ’Stasis’
This is a common condition in guinea pigs, which means there is little to no movement in the gastrointestinal tract (gut). GI stasis will occur anytime a guinea pig stops eating, for any reason. All the below health conditions can lead to stasis. Stress and lack of exercise may also cause GI stasis. Symptoms may include low or no appetite, diarrhoea, decreased faecal production, pain, lethargic and unable to walk. If you do not act quickly, GI stasis can lead to severe life-threatening complications.
Bacterial Pododermatitis (Bumblefoot)
This is a severe footpad infection that occurs in guinea pigs housed in wire-floored cages, rough bedding and unsanitary conditions. Symptoms include swelling and inflammation of the feet, sores and lameness. Some guinea pigs become used to the pain, so they do not seem overly affected but this is not the case. This should be treated by a veterinarian. If left untreated this can become very serious. Improved sanitation and better substrate are the first steps in correcting the problem.
Dental Disease
This is common in guinea pigs who are not fed the correct diet. Majority of their diet should contain fresh hay – eating long strands wear down their teeth. Symptoms of tooth problems are lowered appetite, wet chin and weight loss. Guinea pigs should have their teeth checked by a veterinarian every 6 months to help prevent dental disease.
Scurvy (Vitamin C deficiency)
Vitamin C is vital for the development and maintenance of skin, joints, and mucosal surfaces, I.e. gums. Guinea pigs are unable to manufacture their own vitamin C and if they do not get it through their diets, this can lead to health problems. Symptoms include low appetite, diarrhoea, discomfort, ulcers on gums/skin.
Abscesses
Abscesses can occur anywhere on your guinea pig and is formed when your guinea pig is suffering from an infection. They can develop both under and on the skin of your guinea pig. If you notice the abscess quickly, it can be treated quickly and effectively by your vet. In most cases, these can be drained, however, some need to be surgically removed.
Urinary Problems
Due to their short legs, guinea pigs are low to the ground making it easy to develop infections from wet bedding and droppings. Often urinary stones formulate in association with infection and high levels of calcium in diets. This can be incredibly painful and require vet attention. Signs of urinary problems can include straining to urinate, blood in urine, squeaking whilst urinating, weight loss, lethargy and/or hunched posture.
Upper respiratory conditions
These can quickly become fatal with guinea pigs and therefore need to be treated immediately. Symptoms include: laboured/rapid breathing, lethargy, discharge from the eyes/nose, lack of appetite, sneezing and coughing. The most significant respiratory disease is Pneumonia. Causes of respiratory infections include: stress, overcrowding/poor living conditions or other underlying illness.
Useful links:
https://www.piggieparcels.co.uk/
https://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/
https://www.facebook.com/thegpigguru/
https://www.piggieparcels.co.uk/
https://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/
https://www.facebook.com/thegpigguru/